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Denim is a very popular material which is used for a wide range of applications. It can be difficult to know where to start when working with this type of material, so in this post we answer your questions about working with denim.

The name “denim” originates from the French “serge de Nîmes”, which roughly translates as “a sturdy fabric from Nîmes”. It is made from cotton fibres and comes in a variety of weights, which makes it a versatile fabric to work with. Traditional denim has the signature blue colour on the outside, with white on the reverse. Nowadays, however, denim can be seen in an entire rainbow of colours. It is a strong and durable material, and with proper care well-made denim garments can last for years!

Which type of sewing machine should I use for working with denim?

Industrial sewing machines are perfect for working with all kinds of denim. Needle-feed machines in particular are ideally suited for this kind of work. Lightweight denim can be sewn using the same machines and methods as other cotton fabrics. However, if you are working with heavy denim or want to sew multiple layers, this will require a more specialist set up. It is important to ensure that your machine is heavy-duty enough to handle this kind of work before you start. Using heavy fabric on a machine which is designed for lightweight materials may cause damage or even break the machine. Even if it does keep going, using an unsuitable machine will likely result in a slow and frustrating production process! If you aren’t sure which machine to go for you can ask our team for advice or even send a fabric sample in for us to test before you make a decision.

Can you give an example of an industrial sewing machine which is frequently used for working with denim?

It is difficult to recommend a machine without knowing more about the material and processes it is required to work with. One popular example which is frequently used for working with denim is the Juki MS – 3580. This feed-off-the-arm, 3-needle double chainstitch machine is designed for smooth, efficient feeding of extra heavy-weight 16-ply fabric and is ideally suited to working with heavy denim. It is also engineered with extra feeding strength for seaming the inside of jeans. This makes it a good option for producing denim jackets, jeans, overalls, or any other garment constructed from heavyweight denim.

https://www.ae-sewingmachines.co.uk/juki-ms3580

Do I need to use a certain type of thread when working with denim?

It is important to use the right kind of thread for working with denim. Polyester corespun (T75 count) thread, which combines a polyester filament core with a polyester fibre wrap, is commonly used. This is because it is strong and provides excellent sewing performance with less risk of snapping. When it comes to choosing a colour, it is a good idea to test your colour of choice on a small piece of scrap fabric to check you are happy with the effect. Some manufacturers of denim products colour match their thread colour to the denim they are using, others use bright colours to create a contrasting look, the choice is yours!

Which needles should I use?

Unfortunately, there isn’t a simple answer to this question! Finding the correct needles for your machine can be difficult, it is important to know the correct needle system and size for your machine before purchase. There are also different points available according to your needle system and the effect you are trying to produce. For working with denim we would usually recommend a size 100 needle. However, this is only suitable if your machine is set up accordingly. There is some leeway available, for example if your machine is set up for a size 90 needle it should be able to work with a size 100. If you choose to purchase your industrial sewing machine from us we will set it up for you based on the materials and process you will be working with so you don’t need to worry about finding the right set-up. Let us do the hard part for you!

Do you have any tips for cutting denim fabric?

Before cutting your denim it is important to check the direction of the ribbing to ensure it is consistent across the garment. This will ensure that your finished piece has a professional look. You can cut through denim using good quality scissors, but for heavy denim particularly this can cause RSI and hand strain over time. If you will be working with denim on a regular basis it may be worth investing in a handheld rotary cutter. We stock a wide range of these, with cordless options available and a variety of blade sizes to suit the thickness of the denim you will be working with. Again, if you aren’t sure which will be the best for your purposes you are welcome to check with us!

https://www.ae-sewingmachines.co.uk/fabric-cutting/fabric-cutting-machines

Do I need to pre-wash the material?

Like all fabric made of cotton fibres, raw denim can shrink with washing. The colour can also run, particularly with black and dark blue varieties. Therefore, it is important to pre-wash the material before working with it. The edges of denim fabric are prone to unravelling so ensure that you use pinking shears or secure them with some quick stitches prior to washing. The other option you have is to work with Sanforized denim. This is denim which has been through a treatment process with water and steam to promote shrinkage. It is then pressed against a heated rubber band to relax and recontract the fibres prior to usage. Working with Sanforized denim ensures minimal shrinkage of the finished product and saves you the effort of having to pre-wash the material.

Consumers are understandably becoming much more conscious about where their clothing comes from and how sustainable the materials and production processes are. Denim is durable and well-made pieces can last for a long time, meaning that it can be a relatively eco-friendly. However, it is a notoriously “thirsty fabric” to produce. If you are looking to work with denim and are concerned about the environmental impact which cotton fabrics can have, there are more sustainable options available. The first is to rework existing unwanted garments to create new pieces. This prevents wastage and is one of the most eco-friendly ways to work with denim. If you are purchasing fabric and are looking for an eco-friendly option, there are denims available which are made from recycled materials, and others which are made from 100% sustainable cotton. It’s always a good idea to research the origins of your material and the processes used in its production if you want to ensure your products are as eco-friendly as possible.

If you will be working with denim and aren’t sure where to start with finding the best machine and set up to make your life as easy as possible, just get in touch with our team! If you let us know what you will be producing and what material you will be working with, we will suggest the right machine for the job, build it and set it up ready to use. For extra peace of mind, you are very welcome to send material samples to our office in Ruabon and we will test them for you prior to purchase! Contact our team today via info@ae-sewingmachines.co.uk for more information.

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